Meet Red Meat (Ranchero, 1997)

Red Meat would like to replace Rice-A-Roni as the San Francisco treat. Whether they succeed is a matter of taste, or more specifically whether your sense of humor is in sync with songwriter/lead singer Scott Young. Musically, Red Meat is traditional country Young's voice can adequately handle a full range of country styles, and Jill Olson often provides effective female harmony or duet work.

The sound is very generic, though given what often passes for country music these days, that will be more than enough for many purists. Red Meat seems like a great band to see in a bar, but on disc what makes them stand out - for better or worse - is some of Young's lyrics. If titles like "Inner Redneck," "The Girl With The Biggest Hair,"and "Phone Tag" set you to chuckling, then this album is for you. Young can play it straight though - "My Answered Prayer" is a gem and "One Glass At A Time" is a fine honky-tonker.

As with its edible counterpart, Red Meat will be loved by some - and some others will be vegetarians. (The album is available for $15 from Ranchero Records, 4200 Park Blvd., Suite 227, Oakland, CA 94602)